3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

Product Overview of 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid (CAS No. 86404-04-8) is a next-generation, highly stable vitamin C derivative designed through ethylation modification at the 3-position hydroxyl group of the ascorbic acid molecule. This structural optimization significantly improves the instability issues of traditional vitamin C, such as oxidation, discoloration, and poor skin penetration.

As a premium cosmetic active ingredient, 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid combines exceptional stability with strong biological activity, making it one of the most sought-after functional ingredients in modern skincare formulations. It delivers dual benefits of skin brightening and antioxidant protection while maintaining excellent compatibility with various formulation systems.

Key Features of 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

Outstanding Chemical Stability

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid demonstrates superior stability compared to conventional vitamin C and other derivatives.

• Retention rate reaches up to 95.5% after 6 weeks at 60°C in aqueous solution

• Strong resistance to light, heat, oxygen, acid, alkali, and salt environments

• Minimal discoloration during storage, improving formulation shelf life and product aesthetics

• Far superior stability compared to standard vitamin C (almost fully degraded) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (~70% retention)

This stability makes it ideal for long-term cosmetic product storage and global supply chain distribution.

Amphiphilic Skin Penetration System

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid features a unique amphiphilic molecular structure that enhances skin absorption efficiency.

• Combines hydrophilic and lipophilic properties for improved compatibility with skin barrier

• Ethyl modification increases lipid affinity while preserving water solubility

• Skin transdermal penetration rate up to approximately 58%

• Efficiently reaches the dermis layer for deeper biological activity

• Significantly higher bioavailability compared to most vitamin C derivatives

This allows active performance directly within skin layers where pigmentation and oxidative stress occur.

Gentle and Skin-Friendly Performance

Unlike traditional ascorbic acid, 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid is significantly milder and suitable for sensitive skin formulations.

• Low irritation potential, suitable for daily-use skincare products

• Compatible pH range of 4.0–6.0, matching natural skin condition

• Reduces risk of redness or stinging associated with pure vitamin C

• Ideal for sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin types

Powerful Skin Conditioning Benefits

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid is widely recognized for its multifunctional cosmetic performance:

• Brightens uneven skin tone and reduces dullness

• Helps inhibit melanin formation for whitening effects

• Provides strong antioxidant protection against free radicals

• Supports collagen synthesis and improves skin elasticity

• Assists in reducing photoaging and environmental damage

Product Specifications

• Product Name: 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

• CAS Number: 86404-04-8

• Molecular Formula: C8H12O6

• Molecular Weight: 204.18

• Appearance: White crystalline powder

• Purity: ≥ 99%

• Density: 1.46 ± 0.1 g/cm³

• Melting Point: 112.0 – 116.0°C

• Minimum Order Quantity: 1 kg

• Packaging: 25 kg per drum

• Function: Skin conditioning, whitening, antioxidant

Formulation Guidelines for 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

To maximize performance and stability in cosmetic systems, the following formulation guidelines are recommended:

Recommended Usage Dosage

• Standard skincare formulations: 0.5% – 2%

• High-performance whitening products: 3% – 5%

Processing Conditions

• Add into formulation system below 40°C

• Ensure proper dissolution for uniform distribution

Optimal pH Range

• Stable and effective between pH 4.0 – 6.0

• Best performance near skin-friendly acidic conditions

Stabilization System

• Recommended addition of 0.2% sodium citrate for enhanced stability

Synergistic Ingredients

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid works effectively with multiple cosmetic actives:

• Niacinamide for enhanced brightening and barrier support

• Arbutin for melanin inhibition synergy

• Hyaluronic acid for hydration and skin plumping

• Ferulic acid or antioxidants for improved stability and efficacy

Application Areas of 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid

This versatile ingredient is suitable for a wide range of cosmetic formulations:

Whitening and Brightening Products

• High-concentration serums

• Intensive spot-correcting treatments

• Tone-evening ampoules

Daily Skincare Products

• Moisturizing lotions

• Anti-aging creams

• Brightening emulsions

Functional Cosmetic Systems

• Gel-based formulations

• Sheet masks and sleeping masks

• Sunscreen and after-sun repair products

Its multifunctionality makes it a core active ingredient in modern skincare innovation.

Market Outlook and Industry Trends

The global cosmetic active ingredient market is rapidly evolving, with stable vitamin C derivatives becoming a major growth segment.

According to industry data:

• Niacinamide market saturation is increasing

• Demand for vitamin C derivatives continues to rise

• Usage and product adoption of 3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid increased by nearly 20% in 2023

• Global market size reached approximately 39 million USD in 2024

• Expected to grow to 55 million USD by 2031

• Projected compound annual growth rate (CAGR): 5.3%

This growth reflects strong consumer demand for stable, effective, and low-irritation whitening and antioxidant ingredients.

Conclusion

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid represents a major advancement in vitamin C derivative technology. With its superior stability, high skin penetration, gentle profile, and multifunctional cosmetic benefits, it is becoming a key active ingredient in next-generation skincare formulations.

It offers formulators a powerful solution to overcome the limitations of traditional vitamin C, enabling longer-lasting, more stable, and more effective cosmetic products.

3-O-Ethyl-ascorbic acid empowers skincare innovation with a balance of performance, safety, and formulation flexibility—making it an essential ingredient for modern whitening and anti-aging product development.